The Edit: Why We Can’t Stop Loving 70s Style Jewelry

May 30, 2023

Read the full S/S issue

Directed & Photographed by: Alexander Saladrigas Styled by: Marissa Baklayan Words by: Jill Newman

We have the ‘70s to thank for some of our most iconic and empowering jewelry styles. There is Elsa Peretti's Bone Cuff and Diamonds by the Yard®, Aldo Cipullo's Juste un Clou nail bracelet for Cartier, David Webb's totem pendants, glam rock diamond hoops and statement medallions. The list is long. The jewelry was unapologetically bold, glamorous and expressive.

Necklace WILLIAM GOLDBERG • BRACELETS (L-R) WILLIAM GOLDBERG, JAMES FREE JEWELERS • TOP VINTAGE JEAN PAUL GAULTIER • SKIRT A.W.A.K.E. MODE

BRACELET BULGARI • EARRING ANITA KO

BRACELET JAMES FREE JEWELERS • RINGS (L-R) BUCHERER, FOUNDRAE • EARRING VHERNIER • NECKLACE (WORN AS BELT) SIDNEY GARBER • DRESS CHANEL • BRIEFS STYLISTS’ OWN

BRACELET JEMMA WYNNE • WATCH OMEGA • RING JENNA BLAKE • TOP VINTAGE YSL • SKIRT LOUIS VUITTON

SKIRT LOUIS VUITTON • SHOES UGO PAULON

NECKLACE (WORN AS BELT) SIDNEY GARBER • DRESS CHANEL • BRIEFS STYLIST’S OWN

BRACELETS JAMES FREE JEWELERS • RING FOUNDRAE • EARRING VHERNIER • NECKLACE (WORN AS BELT) SIDNEY GARBER • DRESS CHANEL • BRIEFS STYLISTS’ OWN

EARRINGS REZA • BRACELET JAMES FREE JEWELERS • RINGS (L-R) ALMASIKA, KLOTO • JACKET VINTAGE MIU MIU • BRIEFS VINTAGE PRADA

EARRINGS CHANEL • NECKLACE CHANEL • BRACELET POMELLATO • RINGS (L-R) MACADAM, CHANEL, MACADAM • TOP AND PANTS ANN DEMEULEMEESTER • SHOES CHANEL

NECKLACE JENNA BLAKE • EARRINGS (L-R) PAUL MORELLI, ALMASIKA • DRESS FERRAGAMO

BRACELET (WORN AS HAIR PIECE) VERDURA

As we move toward bigger, statement jewelry in 2023, there are clear nods to our favorite ‘70s themes. You could say the jewelry is aligned with the latest fashion, which is true, but fabulous diamond jewels have never been just about trends. These stylish new pieces are timely—and timeless. When the fashion whims move on, the diamond hoops and signature pendants will stay relevant.

That brings us back to the here and now. Ask almost any stylist, and they will declare the ‘70s as their favorite era. "I always gravitate towards the 70s," says stylist Elissa Santisi, who is a longtime champion of the ‘70s look. "It was a glamorous time, it was androgynous…men dressed like women and women dressed like men, there was sleek minimalism and bold, personal statements, there was a sleezy side and sexy and chic side." Her favorite style icons of the era included Bianca Jager, Charlotte Rampling and David Bowie. And their expressive style is so relevant again right now.

Jewelry designers are embracing the strong ‘70s vibe, but let's be clear, this isn't a repeat. It's a reference to the era's defining jewels. Its influence is in minimalist, genderless designs, sexy torque collars and layers of long pendant necklaces. It's in statement brooches and chunky cocktail rings, glitzy diamond hoops and long drop earrings. It's in symbolic astrological signs, hearts and butterflies and pops of enamel color.

"That ‘70s feel is back and it filters into my psyche when I’m designing," says Paul Morelli, who began designing his eponymous jewelry in the mid-’70s. That spirit comes to life in his ‘ultimate hoop’ earring. "It's a big, well-engineered diamond hoop that is angled the right way and looks great on." New bolder and heavier diamond necklaces with what he describes as having a "glam rock feel" also echoes the ‘70s vibe.

The ‘70s style conjures up images of caftan dresses with long bold pendants and denim shirts unbuttoned to reveal layers of necklaces, says Jennifer Alfano, a jewelry designer who also has the fashion blog Flare Index. "There was a simplicity and streamlined style of dressing in the ‘70s that I’m drawn to," she says. Her new J case in gold with diamonds is a "love letter" to that era: it's a large, hinged case that opens to reveal inscribed words or a drawing. And, she says it's perfect over a caftan (or really anything).

It's not that designers are nostalgic about the ‘70s, they are more empowered by it. As Marion Fasel, founder of The Adventurine explains, "It was a time when women started heading to the office in the masses, so jewelers had to change and create everyday work designs."

She points to Van Cleef & Arpels’ Alhambra, Bulgari's Monete (coins), long swinging necklaces and everyday diamonds (especially diamond stud earrings), as the new everyday jewels. Today, we are seeing new variations of these ‘70s styles.

The ‘70s style reminds us that one great statement piece (or layers of jewelry) is all you need to express your style, mood and independence.

Akaila Reid

Beck Jewels

Riley Keough

Bernard James

Zendaya

Lizzie Mandler

Sidney Garber

Rosie Huntington-Whiteley

Tamsenz

Olivia Wilde

Uniform Object

Jennifer Lopez

Van Cleef & Arpels

Photographer/Director: Alexander SaladrigasStylist: Marissa BaklayanHair: Hair by Shinya Nakagawa at BRIDGE using R+Co Makeup: Maud LaceppeManicurist: Yukie MiyakawaModel/Music: AliciCreative Director: Lizzy OppenheimerCreative Production: Petty Cash ProductionDirector of Photography: Brandon MercerSound Op: Jose GonzalezPhoto Assistants: Ben Kasun, Colin ElliottDigital Tech: Eliot OppenheimerFashion Assistant: Carol Li